Those millions of people who know and love Symi, might find it hard to believe, but I swear I could not find the beginning of the Kalistrata among the back streets of the small town! The next morning whilst consulting my "welcome pack" I decided that it would be a good idea to attend the Welcome Meeting as Sylvia had told us during the crossing the previous day that there were many hidden surprises on Symi that you might miss without some inside knowledge. Not the type to attend such occasions normally, I thought I would take this advice this time. The meeting was to take place in the village - Chorio - at Syllogos Restaurant. So taking my bottled water - essential - and good walking sandals - also essential - I followed the little map provided by Sylvia and searched back and forth in the little town, and because I was too shy to ask anyone, not having learned a word of Greek yet, except for "yammas" I found myself walking up some well-worn and ruinous steps and had clearly gone the wrong way. An elderly Greek woman with a very kind expression offered sign-language directions as I spoke my request to find the REAL steps and of course, there they were, around a corner that I had not tried yet!

So I as I began to climb the three hundred and fifty-plus steps - "The Kalistrata" - feeling the heat of the scorching sun - a new feeling of giddy anticipation took over me. The steps are beautiful, the houses are beautiful, the ruins are beautiful, I'm never gonna get to the meeting on time because there is something to catch your eye at every moment of that demanding walk to the village. Little openings at several intervals showing new and dazzling views of parts of the harbour, town, and across to Nimos and even Turkey. Hard-working donkeys passed me, loaded with wood and bricks, groups of happy tourists, lone travellers like myself, magnificent mansions almost hidden behind ancient courtyards made me more and more curious, but I must keep walking. I don't know why, but the sight of Orthodox priests in full formal dress, chatting on mobile phones as they passed by me, struck me as really something! A little pause at the corner by the Kalistrata bar utterly immobilised me; the view down over gorgeous houses to the harbour and way beyond made me gasp and I stood for a long long time trying to absorb a kind of still beauty that I had not felt ever before.

I felt exhausted but I didn't care, I was simply too happy. A few more steps and many more smiles later I reached the meeting, was greeted with a complimentary freshly squeezed orange juice, and eagerly listened to the crucial information that would ensure that we would experience a truly unique holiday. I couldn't contain my joy, as I had two weeks to look forward to, and the list of options kept that giddy feeling alive. Dot and Brian were there and another lovely couple from Cambridge - John and Ann, and we made instant friends. After the meeting I accompanied my new friends on a gorgeous stroll through Chorio and down to Pedi, a very peaceful and pretty bay which looks out to Turkey, with inviting water, beach-side tavernas, four (I think) little whitewashed churches in lovely courtyards and friendly local people working to keep Symi the beautiful island that we all know and love. It was from Pedi that I would later discover two more beautiful spots - Agia Marina and Agios Nicholas both of which could be reached by walking or the little taxi boat operated by the lovely George.