Symi: Elegant Revival

Taking-off from “Eleftherios Venizelos”, landing in Rhodes, taking a taxi, finding a dolphin, setting off, the sea trip: I have spent a lot of time and money to be here and I am waiting for my reward. It is there in front of me. Hanging in the still summer air in between its past and its future which is filled with questions that need an answer. The once bustling community of the 19th century with 25,000 residents is enjoying the renaissance of the last 15 years. The “faces” of the symmetrically aligned mansions of Yialos, a restored settlement unique in elegance and size, seem to return the gaze. Doors like mouths and windows like eyes all look towards the sea with a brave combination of colours and silhouettes that highlight their wealthy origin. Time is now on their side, and the non-Greeks - Italians, Germans, Danish, English - that buy and restore them care for... the salvation of their souls. The community they have created numbers already more than 200 permanent residents, some of whom “fit-in” with the local community while others, particularly the English, stay loyal to their colonial mentality.

God save Symi – because the locals don’t treat her well, if you judge from the 900 (!) cars and bikes that bother the small island, where the longest tarmac road is only 22 kilometres…

You can try and resist the humidity that is always with you as you climb up the 500 steps of Kali Strata that link Gialos with Chorio (Upper town) but you are still jealous of the lucky ones that are reading and gazing lazily at the view from the wooden balconies of the restored mansions. After waiting for the sun to go down while sitting in the shaded kafeneio of Lefteris, you can search for the right way through the different neighbourhoods – Syllogos, Vigli, Kataraktis, Lieni- before realising very quickly that appearances are deceptive: the settlement, apart from being exquisite, is also very big. You can make certain of this by climbing higher, to Panagia of Kastro, where you can visually map it and listen to Papa-Stefanis recounting how the temple’s icons were saved before the blowing up of the old church. At dusk, you can walk on the other side, where the 1881 Municipal clock tower and “Mihalaki” the statue by Symiote sculptor K. Balsamis are located, and where you can watch the sun shining towards the coloured houses on the other side. You can then go to Harani with the old shipyard and go for a walk up to Emporio (Nimporio). Later, when the exclamation inside you has changed into questions, you can leave the elegant town for a while and drive towards the small harbour of Pedi and afterwards take the road to Panormitis where you can mingle with the tourists that come on the day-trip boats for the pilgrimage to the Archangel. During this journey the island will surprise you with a rare forest of pine and cypress trees that grow in the rocks, and the dozens of monasteries and churches, offerings from sailors and sponge-divers.

Eventually one morning you may take the flying dolphin, wondering what do you prefer, Symi of the 80s (where the tourist infrastructure has remained) or Symi of 2006, a multi-cultural community that in a while will belong primarily to non-Greeks? Even so, you will find it difficult to turn your head towards the sea. Until the last moment, the incredibly beautiful images of the harbour will catch your gaze like a documentary from an embellished past.



ANES: www.anes.gr or phone 22410 70590 (in Rhodes) & 22410 71307 (in Symi)

DODEKANISOS SEAWAYS: www.12ne.gr or phone 22410 37769 (in Rhodes) & 22410 71444 (in Symi)

From Pireaus the boat “Marina” of GA FERRIES departs every Saturday at 1:00 in the afternoon and gets to Symi at 9:00 on Sunday morning.


Police 71111 – Port Authority 71205



With the small taxi boats you can get to other beaches on the eastern side of the island (for the rest you need to make a special deal with the boatmen). The islet of Agia Marina has a very narrow beach and platforms for jumping into the sea, Agios Georgios Disalonas, with a cliff face so vertical it looks like it’s been cut out of the rock, is considered by many one of the best in the island, as is Nanou, which has large pebbles but wonderful waters (the umbrellas & sunbeds there are free, courtesy of the only taverna on the beach). One of the best beaches of the island is Agios Vasilios, a closed bay in the south-west, that is accessible by boat or by a footpath. It‘s also a good idea to be taken by boat to the small islands of Seskli and Nimos, which have beaches and also to Agios Aimilianos (which is also accessible via a footpath, but involves walking for two and half hours) and next to it, Gaidouromantra. Opposite Agios Aimilianos is Fokospilia. Inside the cave you can find hidden a small beach with small pebbles that can fit as many as 30 people. It’s best not to disturb the seals that you might meet there if they have just given birth and are protecting their babies!

ARCHITECTURE: Second youth

Neoclassical-like house fronts with symmetrical openings: the windows and the doors with the balconies make the buildings of Yialos in Symi resemble human faces. The settlement was developed in the 15th and 16th century with dense structure and vaulted passages and in the middle of the 19th century it started to move down towards the sea. It was build by technicians from Karpathos, who knew well how to use stones as building material. Following the neoclassical pattern, the houses have tiled roofs, pediments, decorative elements, and a square ground plan. They are two-story at the front and one-storey at the back due to the slope of the ground. In the old days, they painted them with white wash (asvesti) coloured with ochre, lilac and terracotta tinges that we can see again today in their fronts that are painted with deeper synthetic colours. Their yards are paved with local slates or pebbles (votsaloto).

“The Neoclassical part is influenced by the cities of Asia Minor. The settlement is unique because it shows us how the Symiots blended the architecture of Asia Minor into the local topology. We don’t see this style anywhere else, while neoclassical architecture is characterised by its strictness, in Symi it is not like that. It has symmetries on first appearance, but this is not the rule. And the more you search, the more you realise that there are no two houses alike”, points out the architect Dimitris Zografos who repatriated himself and now works on the island.

The more urban areas with the biggest and richest houses can be found near the Clock Tower in Harani, and on the left hand-side of Kali Strata, towards the parapet. You will also see mansion houses scattered in the centre of Chorio, although as a rule the poorer people lived high up in the settlement. “Symi is not all neoclassical, the neoclassical settlement is at the harbour. In my opinion the upper part of the settlement is more important from an architectural point of view and is being kept in very good condition. Of course there have been many additions and is sometimes difficult to be certain, but it constitutes an interesting mix between Aegean architecture with castle-like houses and Venetian elements”, says Zografos.

The economical decline of the island that started at the beginning of the 20th century due to steam-driven boats putting the sailing boats out of commission led to mass emigration and the desertion of Symi by its residents. The disasters of the Second World War (explosions, etc.) accelerated the desertion. Since 1975, foreigners and Greeks started to buy and restore houses and the settlement was pronounced traditional and in need of preservation.

JOURNEYS: Towards Pedi and Panormitis

There are two main road routes in the island. The first, towards Pedi, is only 2 kilometres long. The tarmac road passes through a valley full of grapes and eucalyptus trees leading to a (once a lot prettier) fishing village that was built inside a closed bay surrounded by large rocks. It has three tavernas, a hotel that attracts a lot of people, charming ruined houses by the sea front, but also a few new ones. It is worth going for a walk up to the end of the settlement on both sides to get the full picture: the locals have retained their old-style atmospheric microcosms. The second route, the longest in the island, is 22 kilometres long and leads to Panormitis. At the beginning, the route climbs up and offers an excellent view towards Yialos and Chorio. Later on, the rocky scenery gives way to an unusually large forest of pine and cypress trees that grow together on the rocks. During the whole route you will be counting churches and monasteries: Agia Marina, Agia Triada, Profitis Ilias, Agia Ekaterini, Agios Efrem, Agios Prokopios (in fact, there is a total of 135 monasteries in the island, most of which are offerings by sailors and sponge divers). An important monastery is the fort-like Mihaili (Mihail Roukouniotis) with old wall paintings in both of its churches. Outside the monastery there is a phenomenal cypress tree: it is according to the locals 850 years old and has developed a big round shape that resembles a plane-tree.

Just before Panormitis you will see on your left the road that leads to the quiet beach of Marathounta and following that the road descends towards the bay with the monastery of Taksiarhi Mihail. According to manuscripts it has been there since the 15th century and was built in honour of Archangel Michael, whose icon, covered in silver and gold, is considered miraculous. The size of the building complex and the elegance of its bell tower, built in 1911, are magnificent as are the stories that are told about the icon of the Archangel: the one that everyone will tell you is that they call him “a thief” because if they don’t give him the promised offering, he always finds a way to take it.

The day-trip boats bring dozens of tourists to Panormitis each day, while many locals rent out the cells of the monastery complex, help with the day-to-day running of the monastery and spend their holidays there. The satellite monastery of Panormitis, Megalos Sotiris, is also magnificent and fort-like (on the road to Panormitis).

FOOD

“Tholos”. Greek cuisine with tables very close to the water and views to Yialos from Harani which are worth any extra calorie!

“Mythos” and “Mythos at Aktaio”. The former can be found near the heart of Yialos and during the high season becomes a fish restaurant while its chef, Stavros Gogios moves a bit further down to the roof of the old harbour cinema. Some of the dishes you can enjoy while you savour the view include a “parcel” with two different types of fish, fennel and “bougiabes” sauce with saffron, fried kalamari with flat leaf parsley pesto, stuffed courgette with mushroom sauce, fillet of fish with lemon and olive oil, mint and capers, grilled swordfish with pepper and honey, and shrimps with strawberry vinegar. Every Sunday, between 10:00-13:00 they also offer cooking seminars.

“Neraida”. For fresh fish.


“Lefteris”. A passage and a favourite gathering spot for locals and foreigners in Chorio. Lefteris was a seaman and has had his kafeneio for 20 years. Apart from coffee and soft drinks, he serves salads, octopus, and various mezes to accompany your ouzo. Next door, Giannis Misos operates primarily as a café bar.

“Mylos” Eat a selection of mezes by a restored Mill.

You will also find tavernas at the beaches. At Nimporio there is the “Metapontis”, at Agia Marina there is a good restaurant that came about from the collaboration between a Frenchman and an Italian woman, at Pedi three tavernas by the water-front – Mihalis, Nikos Katsaras and Tolis. There are also tavernas in Marathounta, Panormitis and Nanou.

ENTERTAINMENT

“Jean and Tonic”. From Jean with love… for English and non-English customers.

“Glaros”. A bar for the local youth.


“Vapori” was already in operation for 10 years when, in 1988, it was taken over by an English teacher and her friend. It is open all day and at night it becomes a bar playing jazz and blues. The hanging of foreign newspapers from the back of the chairs is a nice idea.

“Katoi” or “Ahinos” which is the nickname of Mihalis, the owner. The best place to sit is on the big cushions on the steps by the water front. It is open all day and at night it becomes a bar with tables outside extending to the front of the neighbouring Pharmacy. With the right company, you can dance inside the bar.

“Harani” is both an indoor and outside bar that is a favourite with Greeks and foreigners alike with an indoor club that you can visit after 1:00 in the morning. It plays everything – from rock, blues, jazz, to Greek music.

“Pachos kafeneio” is an old traditional kafeneio with jams and good Greek coffee.

“Evoi-Evan” is an all day bar by the square, as is “Kantirimi” which some nights plays live Greek music (rembetika) and also has wireless internet access.

Indoor clubs playing all types of music are “Astarti”, towards the Roloi and “Alethini”, on the road to Pedi.

ACCOMMODATION

“Aliki” in Yialos (22460-71.665) is the best hotel on the island and is located inside an 1895 building. It has a very nice salon/reception area with a stone fireplace, interesting furniture and a magnificently-painted ceiling. It houses its guests in 15 rooms, two of which are considered suites. You should not miss a visit to its roof terrace.

“Nireas” in Yialos (22460-72400) is a big hotel just after the Clock Tower with 36 rooms, 4 suites, café Avra, and a restaurant. A lot of the rooms have sea views.

“Garden studios” in Yialos (22460-72429) has a bold combination of colours on the outside of this nice building, together with a charming garden with a nice wooden cart.

“Opera House” in Yialos (22460-71856) is a nice looking building on the outside and has a covered courtyard where you can enjoy your coffee. However, the inside of the rooms and the level of service is back in the 80s.

In Chorio, there is the small hotel “Fiona” (22460-72088), and “Chorio” (22460-71800). In Pedi, many families prefer “Pedi Beach” (22460-71981) mainly because it is very close to the sea. It is also a reminder of the 80s. In Symi you can also find houses for rent (their owners call them villas). For information search at www.symivisitor.com and www.kalodoukas.gr.

At the Old Shipyard

The big confiscated boat that offers the men shade while working is called “Lazy Days”. It fits the set perfectly. The old shipyard enjoys such “lazy” days not because this is what people working there want, but because times have changed. Its decline started 10 years ago; because of cheaper wages in Turkey, the repair and building of wooden boats is not economical any more. Giannis Manoleskos is from a family of caulkers and one of the last five remaining in Greece. He has been working for the past 36 years. “Everything I have is from my work at the shipyard. I have three sisters and for each of them I needed to build a house. I was working from sunrise to sunset with only three little breaks”, he tells me bending over his bench, next to his brother-in-law who is making the cabin of a wooden boat. The last few years they mainly do conversions, repairs, hauling up and launching of boats. “Some locals still prefer wood and ask for wooden boats, most though buy polyester-made that need less maintenance. You need to love working with wood, but it’s not economical any more, not even to do repairs. It takes two months to finish and paint a boat and the price is the same as a plastic one. Whoever buys it doesn’t care that what he gets is a piece of art because a hand-made boat has not a single straight piece of wood on it. We make the straight ones bend …”, says Yiannis. The most beautiful boat he has made is on Symi and is a fishing boat (trehantiri) 8.5 metres long called “Arhon Mihail”. His dream, however, before finishing working at the shipyard is something else: “I want to make a trireme boat which you can only row or sail with… and we can go places.”

A few houses further down I meet his friend, Mihalis Misos. Together they’ve converted many boats, one of which they even lined using cherry-tree mahogany wood. Mihalis has worked wood since he was 13 and makes living room chairs, dining tables, wooden ceilings, etc. from many types of wood such as mahogany, walnut, beech and cedar trees. There is bigger demand for furniture. “We make mirrors, living room furniture, anything to do with the old Symi style. We even have requests from Rhodes. When you love what you do, making art is easy. It’s more difficult bringing the materials here – when it comes to carving the wood… it’s resting time!”, he says.